Oil me up! What should we ACTUALLY be using post lam?

Here’s my older blog https://thebrowgeek.co.uk/blogs/10-000-adaptations/astor-oil-v-coconut-oil

This is from
2021, so it’s probably not as detailed as I would have now, so let’s give this a little update for 2024

Is castor oil ok on its own? 

Castor oil has a molecular structure that consists of large molecules, which some people believe may make it more difficult for the oil to be fully absorbed by the hair shaft. However, while the size of the molecules may affect how easily castor oil penetrates the hair, it can still provide benefits when applied to the scalp and hair, and skin around the brows

The thick consistency of castor oil can help it coat the hair and form a protective layer, which can still benefit the hair by providing moisture and nourishment. Additionally, massaging the oil into the area can improve blood circulation and support healthy hair growth, even if the oil is not fully absorbed into the hair shaft.

So, while the molecular size of castor oil may impact its absorption into the hair to some extent, it can still be a beneficial ingredient in hair care routines due to its moisturizing and protective properties.

“But, Debs, it’s a coating oil”

Yes, castor oil is considered a "coating oil." When applied to the hair, castor oil forms a protective barrier around the hair shaft, helping to lock in moisture and prevent loss of hydration. This coating effect can also help smooth the hair cuticle, reduce frizz, and add shine to the hair. However, because castor oil is a thicker oil, it may weigh down hair if used in excessive amooil sparingly or blend it with lighter oils to avoid buildup.

“What about those big molecules”?

Castor oil is a triglyceride, which means it consists of three fatty acids attached to a glycerol molecule. The main fatty acid present in castor oil is ricinoleic acid, which makes up about 90% of the oil.

The molecular structure of ricinoleic acid is as follows:
- Chemical formula: C18H34O3
- It has a long hydrocarbon chain with 18 carbon atoms, a carboxylic acid group, and a hydroxyl group.

When three molecules of ricinoleic acid combine with a glycerol molecule through ester bonds, they form the triglyceride structure of castor oil.

the molecular structure of castor oil is made up of long chains of fatty acids, which contribute to its unique properties and potential benefits for hair and skin care.

“So what about after lamination?”

Castor oil is known for its moisturising properties, so it can potentially help hydrate and nourish hair that has been chemically treated, such as after a lamination, lami can damage the hair and make it dry and brittle due to the chemical processing involved.

Applying castor oil to hair after a lamination or (perm) treatment can help replenish moisture, improve hair's elasticity, and reduce frizz. The thick consistency of castor oil can also help protect the hair shaft and prevent further moisture loss.

However, like anything individual results may vary, and it's essential to consider your clients specific needs and condition of brows before using castor oil or any other products post lam,

Essentially, castor oil isn’t “bad” it’s just we now know more and use it in a blend to give multiple “good”results as an after care product

I’ve been studying this since 2020 and our BROW E.R and our NEW honey infused oil is what you need 


easy on the pocket, a perfectly made blend and minis too (for your client) 


As Always, 


Love The Brow Geek xx

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